Italian job - Trip report to Italy, 2012

Day 0: Vienna and flights !!

Our Austrian air flight from Dubai on 20^th night (of a blistering hot July in Dubai) had a connection at Vienna. The connection did not work due to technical issues which meant we lost one evening in Rome. By the time we landed, it was already night and we immediately took a cab to Sheraton Roma our first port of call. Idea of choosing the Sheraton was (apart from being relatively cheaper) was that they had shuttle services right to the center of historical Rome.

Day 1 in Rome

Took the early morning shuttle from the Sheraton to historical Roman center; The 8 am bus dropped us outside the Campidoglio – the famous piazza designed by Michelangelo. 

Light was harsh and there was no point in doing too much shooting. Just enjoyed sitting by and watching Rome pass by in the shades of some amazing work.  

Latter on decided to walk around enjoying the sights of Rome – first was Monumento a vittorio emmanuel 2, followed by a walk to Colesseum past the Roman ruins. 

It’s a feeling of awe and of stepping back and thinking about what was once a glorious city. How would have he Romans lived in the midst of all the wealth and grandeur (especially after reading the rate for Italian government bonds shooting up in the financial papers in the morning!!)

After lunch in a nice Italian pizza place, used the Colosseum ticket (combined with both roman forum and palatino) to get into the world famous structure. You can feel what the gladiators felt as they probably walked into the centre cheered on by the massive crowds around.

 

Once sunset was approaching walked over to the Roman forum clicking palatino, temple of Saturn & Mars, Venus, Arco di tito, Arco di constantino along with colosseum in lights.

Also took a short walk by the river (Fiume Tevere) across which would be our next major plan - the Vatican city. Had dinner in the same place that we had lunch since the pizza was really terrific and draught was nicely chilled. (Which helped when outside temperature was in high 30s)

On the way back to where the hotel would pick us up,  stopped at Campidoglio, took night time snaps of the piazza , Foro traiano (along with Mercati Trianei and colonna traiana), Emmanuelle 2. Also took some light trail shots of Theatro Marcello opposite Campidoglio.

 

Day 2 : Rome

Day 2 was dedicated to Vatican along with some more key monuments on the way from roman centre to Vatican. We decided to walk from Rome to Vatican since most of the important monuments we wanted to see was scattered along the way.

From Campidoglio, walked through the Via del corso to Fontana Di Trevi (coin throwing fountain!!!). Once done with shooting there moved over to Palazzo Chigi on the way to the Pantheon. Spend sometime inside the Pantheon which almost felt super air conditioned inside given the stone construction and air flow. Post Pantheon moved on to Piazza Navona.

Had lunch to break the long walk from a roadside pizzeria close to Navona. After lunch, walked at the riverside from Ponte Umberto all the way to Ponte St Angelo from where shot some great shots of St Peter’s Basilica as well as Castel St Angelo.

Walked into Vatican after that to stand in the long queue for entrance. Had a great time shooting the terrific lights inside the basilica – worth the 1.5 hrs spent in queue in searing Italian heat.

 ntings as well as doing multiple natural light shots (no tripods or flash allowed inside). Gave me a chance to try my new 50 prime (1.8, ver II). Unfortunately, we were so engrossed in the basilica that we ran out of time to get into the Sistine chapel. (Noted for next time’s visit)

We spent close to 2 hours just enjoying the interplay of light, shadows and fantastic pai

On the way back to Campidoglio, had dinner at a riverside restaurant. Tasty and well-priced Gelato was always a time tested way to finish a meal at Rome. We traced the same path back to centre of Rome taking some night shots of the Fontana di trevi, piazza navona as well as Pantheon. 

Spend a while browsing the lovely drawings of artists at the Navona. Sandy bought a couple of lovely paintings to take back as memoir.

Day 3: Florence

Took the hotel shuttle early in the morning to EUR magliana (metro stop closest to Sheraton). From Magliana took a metro to Roma Termini. From Termini train took us to Florence station, from where a Taxi took us to the Sheraton Firenze which was in a nice Tuscan hillside away from the City. Took a nap before taking hotel shuttle to City centre.

Got down close to the Piazzo St Marco. From there walked over to the St Maria Del Fiore housing the world famous Dome. Since all chapels and towers were shut for the day took a few shots in and around the place in fading light which provides a glow to Florence that is memorable. Had some Italian fare for Dinner in a small roadside café across from Piazza di St. Giovanni behind the Del Fiore.

Went to shoot the Piazza SS Anunziata in lights (close to the leather market) post which went back to the Hotel through the inviting Tuscany landscape.

Day 4 : Florence

Today we planned to go to Pisa. Just for ticking it off since it’s indeed a world wonders. I also wanted to read up on the construction and engineering behind the original construction as well as the subsequent renovations.

Half a day spent in Pisa was worth it though we got mugged by a family. Unfortunately for me, the only thing that they could run away with was the sachet of my Lee GND filter assuming it was Sandy’s wallet. The filter had to go into the front pocket of my Photography vest from then on with a real risk of getting broken. Thankfully, the quality of Lee stood us well.

Got back to Florence by evening and went up the 450 odd steps to Dome to shoot the Florence skyline. Was phenomenal to say the least.

Climbed down the 450 odd steps and decided to go up the Bell Tower, another 300 odd steps. It was a real test of both our fitness and determination. A total of around 1500 steps in 2 hours almost killed us. However, we had to do it since we did not want to lose the chance of shooting the setting sun from both the settings. The end product of the work was worth it.

We rested for a while to get breaths back and then moved to Galleria D Uffizi where works/replicas of masters are displayed along with many artists painting below in the galleries (Including the Michaelangelo’s famous David’s replica)

Got a Pakistani dinner place to take a break from the Pizzas and Risottos. After having some Indian food went off for a happy sleep back at Hotel.

Day 5 : Florence

After living in Tuscan hills for couple of days, we shifted to Westin Firenze right in the city centre and bang at the Arno river side. It did live up to the expectations of being one of the top rated hotels in the world. We got a room with a balcony overlooking Arno river and was one of the most romantic settings to spend an evening or early morning – listening to live music by solo musicians, with artists painting across the Ponte Vecchio bridge and brilliant sculptures and domes punctuating the historical city skyline. (Ponte Vecchio is one of the oldest bridges full of goldsmiths from bygone eras)  

After lunch, we decided to go see work of Michelangelo (especially the world famous David); when we saw the queue was around 3-4 hour long I quit to go and get some sleep. Sandhya favored David to sleep and had a great time enjoying the art. We met at Westin in the evening and hiked to Piazzale Michelangelo.  It gives a scintillating view of the Florence skyline after a trek up a hill (easy trek over Asphalt roads – so everyone can do it).

Spend 4-5 hours just enjoying the atmosphere, shooting the sunset, listening to live music, watching masterful spray painters at work and in general immersing in the wonder that Florence is. 

Also finally took shots of the Santa Maria Novella which gives the main station in Florence it’s name.

Clearly, in 3 days Florence became one of our most beloved cities – a terrific combination of music, art, cuisine, history as well as dream shots from a photographers point of view.

Next day we would check out of the fantastic hotel to take our train to Venice wondering if Venice can match Florence in the romanticism. 

Day 6 : Venice

Took our train from Firenze Santa Maria Novella to Venice St Lucia station. Stepping out of the train station in Venice itself is an unforgettable experience. You walk through the usual menagerie of tourists, briefcases, vending machines, shops and step out to see the majestic grand canal with Vaporettos taking people and tourists to their end destinations. In the back ground is St Simeon Piscolo church looming over the everyday Venice scene.

Took a water bus to San Marco (which was where our Hotel Westin Europa and Regina was located). Didn’t know there were two San Marcos. Hence took a grand canal tour and reached the wrong San Marco. Took another Vaporetto back to the real San Marco and checked into the hotel right in the middle of Venice and walking distance from St Mark’s Square and most other attractions.

Waited for the light to become a bit softer. At around 6 p.m shot around Piazza San Marco shooting the tethered Gondolas dancing in the waves with slow shutter speed

.Then decided to go up the Campanile to get city scapes of Venice.

Unlike, Florence, there was a lift to take you up helping us avoid the 1000 step hike. After getting some stunning Venice scapes including Basilica Di San Marco, Island of Giorgio Maggiore, Doge’s Palace and some top down views of St Mark’s Square including an interesting placement of chairs in one of the cafes.

Decided to walk to Ponte Rialto close to the famous Rialto market. Found a nice café just below the Rialto bridge to have a Venetian dinner with Italian wine.

Decided to call it a day to get some rest at midnight for a planned early morning sunrise shoot. 

Day 7 : Venice

Missed Sunrise and slept till 7am. Sunrises usually are best at around 4-5 am during summers and hence was difficult to do after late night shoots.

Decided to spend morning walking to Gallerie Dell’ Academia. On the way shot some Venetian masks and bought one as a nice souvenir. There are some lovely views of Venice to be had from the Ponte Dell Academia. After spending sometime there had lunch at a roadside café.

We had to try the Traghettos – famous point to point gondolas of Venice (these are basically gondolas stripped of all it’s fineries and transporting tourists and well as venetians across grand canal for half a euro). Took one across Grand Canal from Santa Maria Del Giglio to Salute.

Walked over to cheisa della salute from the Traghetto stop and sat around looking at Venice going through her day. Lazily sitting at the steps and enjoying the throng of water traffic and gondolas with tourists flitting about is an experience unlike any other.

In the evening walked to the Punta Dogana next to Della Salute which opens into the seas and is the edge of Venice looking over Island of St Giorgio Maggiore.

For the night took a long waterside walk to Ponte Lungo doing some street shooting, looking at all the cruise ships lined up in the shore and having gelatos.  

Dam over river Amstel

Took a short but exciting trip to Amsterdam towards end of June. This was my first trip to Holland and hence was excited by what the city had in store for me. I always like the idea of landing up in a "first time" city alone with out much of a plan. Wifey did not manage to get leaves which meant I did not have any quarter back for company for this trip ( Of course, I hooked up with a school mate currently living in Amsterdam and got inside dope about living in the city)

What a city ! It's unlike any that I've been to in my life.

I was flying from Dubai on the Royal Dutch - the first time I was flying KLM. It was a bit irritating to be flying with no loyalty cards since you have to stand in queue for ticketing, check in etc. Anyways, after a nice night's sleep reached AMS early in the morning.

Checked into Hotel Pulitzer - its an amazing traditional hotel in the bank of one of the larger canals within walking distance from Plaza and Dam square. It's right in the middle but yet secluded from the crowd. It has around 200 odd rooms with no two room similar. I got a nice upgrade which made it even better - I could relax on the balcony overlooking the canal in terrific weather. Great service, great rooms, great bathrooms - for me to be saying that about a hotel means it's indeed good ! Much more interesting than the usual Meridiens and Sheratons from the SPG group that I normally stay in. Highly recommended.

I was shooting with a P&S - a Sony TX-10 borrowed from a friend. Wanted to test the panorama function and also use it more as a curtain raiser for the summer shoot in EU latter on. Also did not want to take my full kit for the trip given it was more a fun and party trip than a photography trip.

3 things that are must dos in Amsterdam probably are (if you are adult)

1. Enjoy a walk down the RLD one weekend to just witness the chaotic happy scenes (If you don't know what that is probably you are better off giving it a skip!!)
2. Try something interesting on the menu of a coffee shop with all that Rasta art, Floyd music and happy people (If you don't know what coffee shops are, again, you are better off giving it a skip!!)
3. Lazy walks around Dam square and along the multitudes of canals criss-crossing the city with your favorite drink. (Coffee ?)

If you are not too adventurous, you still have enough things to do in AMS - churches, museums, Ann Frank house, river/canal cruises, cycling, parks, windmills, flower shows.  

Some more pics from the trip

Middle East Memoirs

I've been travelling quite a bit in the region, talking to local people about culture, religion, revolution and the likes. I must confess I've become a more matured human over the last 2 years of "international" living. It gives one a much better perspective on these regions than the usual fly in, live in hotel, fly out that I was doing thus far. Your life in such a case is defined by the boringly standardized Hotel breakfast, Starbucks coffee, Pizza Hut working lunches, Starbucks coffee and cookies and Hotel Dinners.
While world is diverging at many instances, it is also converging in remarkable ways. Public ownership in many instances is deteriorating while private ownership seems to be becoming better. The rich in many countries are living in an increasingly convergent life - in New York to London to Singapore to Dubai to Mumbai- they all use similar phones, Ipads, watch same movie pretty much same day in similar looking Theatres drinking similarly carbonated drinks and munching pop corns in similar looking cups ! And ofcourse every one is on Facebook !
This does have far reaching consequences for consumer goods, media, retail, design and anything to do with user interface. This is also where companies that can customize based on regional preferences will have premium valuations - it's a bit lame to say that at a time when Facebook is going to have a grand IPO or Apple's valuation seems to be going sky high !
Customization will be driven by an in-depth understanding of customer needs / wants- that's why we trust big data is going to play a large role in most companies around the world. You can read a bit about that here

Pope and communism

"Today it is evident that Marxist ideology in the way it was conceived no longer corresponds to reality." This precursor to Cuban trip of the Pope has led to some in depth debates across economists, social scientists, theologians and random other folks.
It is evident where Pope is coming from - communism and Vatican theocracy are indeed poles apart and no one should actually be surprised at this statement of the head of Vatican church.

While church believes in spiritual up-liftment of individual humans, communism believes in material fulfillment of societies at large and especially of the downtrodden. While church postulates human freedom / liberty as important in selecting the rightful path to Jesus, Communism's central tenet is one of state being the primary institution. Historically too church has always abhorred Communism's pre-occupation with revolution, be it armed or unarmed, as a means to any acceptable end.

While Im not a fan of communism as an economic model (at least in it's original Marxist way), I'm amused at a Pope making such a comment at the start of a Papal visit. Can Vatican propose a suitable alternate economic model for countries like Cuba ? Should a religious institution be involved in economics and politics ? Which democratic nation has mixed these elements and came out successful ?

Don't confuse passion with competence

A nice read from HBR - Scott speaks about something which I debate all the time when I'm advising VCs/ entrepreneurs.

http://blogs.hbr.org/anthony/2012/02/dont_confuse_passion_with_comp.html

For me equally interesting was a comment in there

"Speed does not matter if you are going in the wrong direction. Finding the right direction needs competence and increasing speed needs passion! However, both are necessary but not sufficient conditions for innovation. A bit of luck and divine intervention are the catalyzing ingredients."

I believe our's is a generation that has systematically underestimated luck - 80% of stuff I hear in business television these days makes me laugh and throw my hands up in the air. The kind of stuff Taleb had laughed about in his ingenious Black Swan.

Temple of tigers

After exactly 2 years, I'm going back to Ranthambhore- the Temple of Tigers. Setting so dramatic and so full of photo opportunities that I've always been unhappy after a visit. I never think I did justice to the opportunities nor that I got enough. My last trip report to Ranthambhore can be found here. Was a fun trip though we did not shoot much.

This time around I go with no expectations. As they say contentment is indeed the mother of happiness. It's not the best time for sighting (which is March to June)and as usual I've not planned this through. Called up Dicky day before yesterday and today evening I'll be in a plane to Jaipur and then to Sawai Madhopur. (Thank god for little mercies - Air Arabia flies directly to Jaipur helping me avoid Delhi and saving around 8 hours)

Indian forests, more than anything else she has, takes me close to spirituality. Being in Rajbaug, taking the scenery around in the soft orange glued winter light of Rajastan through the morning mist is as close to being spiritual as one can be.

I often wonder - what's it about nature and forests that is so deep ? Almost a painful melancholy; a stark reminder about what we have borrowed from future and have been pretty callous about in our present. A throw back to the most primitive and adventurous core of a human. A salutation to free spirit and a million possibilities.

Whether I see anything or not, it's going to be a week of peace away from the urban jungles of Dubai. Cheers to a million possibilities.

Be back soon...

Reads and views !

Been quite a busy quarter for me even without too many cross continental flights. Anyways, catching up currently on some reading and some viewing ! Couldn't help but recommend a few

1. Born Wild by Tony

Personally for me, Tony and George has both been inspirational people. I know purists who are extremely skeptical about their tactics and about any reintegration program around the world especially pertaining to big cats. But hey, conservation is about life forms - science/scientific research can only so much predict and draw the contours of what is right or wrong. These two humans did whatever they did with extreme passion and extreme love. And for this reason, Ill forever be in awe of them

2. Eternal enemies - one of the first major docu movie from Duba plains in Okavango by Jouberts who have since then become synonymous with this delta in the sweltering Botswana. I've never been to Bots but this clearly has put ideas in my mind ! Amazing lighting, visualizations and patience in every shot is evident. The recently released Last Lions is again an excellent text book in wild life film making. One does feel it has some editing issues at least for my pretty amateur tastes - sequences stitched together from clearly different lighting situations to create the flow in story. Eternal enemies for me presents Jouberts and Duba at it's best. Even more than Last Lions (which of course is still better than many others from 2011 coming out of Africa- but then that is expected of the Jouberts)

Don't yet know where 2012 will take me - but hope I can go back to my favorite continent soon !

Revisit

During my second year at B School, one of my profs had (probably as a punishment for not submitting some assignment) asked a bunch of us to write up who are the 5 people who have touched us the most and why. As I was cleaning my IIM A HDD, I stumbled upon this giving me some fodder for introspection.


1. My father
He taught me the value of education. He taught me what it means to stand on one’s own. He also taught me the cost of freedom. He always says , “ I’ve given you all the freedom in the world in the belief that you won’t misuse it!”.

2. Adolf Hitler

I have been inspired by his war tactics and single minded determination. He is one
person whom I probably hate the most amongst human beings without a complete lack of
respect.

3. Viktor Frankl

Among the 3 philosophers from the Austrian school of Philosophy, I am inspired by
the works of Frankl more than both Freud and Adler. His belief in love even under
the inhuman conditions of concentration camps and his will to survive even while his
parents, sister and wife were being burnt alive or gassed in the chambers speaks volumes about him. His works on existentialism have always given me new meanings in life whenever I read them

4. Paulo Coelho

If there is one person who has instilled huge optimism in me towards life, it is Paulo Coelho through his masterpiece “The Alchemist”. The motif that if we will for something strongly enough the whole universe conspires for our success has lifted me out of despair and put me in search of success with renewed vigor many a times.

5. Mahatma Gandhi

Here was yet another individual whom I loved and respected even though I did not
really identify with or support all his decisions and methodologies. I think he merited a lot of respect for his single minded devotion to chosen path of success. He taught me that end need not always justify means. Though if independence struggle was taken as a singularity then I would put Bhagat Singh or Subash Chandra Bose above Gandhi as persons who have instilled in me a deep love for our country, Gandhi gave me a benchmark in passion towards a cause.

I've changed a bit since that day 6 years back. How has it affected the list ?
Adolf Hitler is out. George Schaller is in. My views of Gandhi has changed from cynical respect to pure respect without yet being a "fanboy". Paulo Coelho just about remains in the list under competition from Sachin Tendulkar. (Close choice!)
Would be interesting to read this list 10 years, 20 years from now ! Make a list !

Brazil

I'm in Sao Paulo or Sampa for the locals. Its raining all the time thus far since I landed here in a direct EK fight from Dubai, clearly the longest haul I've done without stoppage. One cannot help wonder the efficiency of modern jet engines doing over 16 hours straight with no refuel. The temperature is temperate due to the elevation from sea level. It has been around 16-17 throughout - cold enough to not break a sweat and cover the city on foot where ever possible and warm enough not to be wearing super warm cloths.
The initial plan was to fly into Sampa and then connect to Campo Grande to head to Mato Grosso and Pantanal in search of the Jaguar. Inclement weather and logistics put paid to that plan.
So here I'm walking the street of New York of Southern Hemisphere a bit bored and a bit excited. For starters it's an intriguing city. Lot of culture, breakneck growth, crime, traffic chaos, brilliant parks, amazing restaurants and theaters and museums. Also famed for the more seedier side with it's prives, clinicas, favelas and strip clubs. It's a hotch potch for sure where immigrants from Italy, Portugal, Japan, Korea, China, Africa etc have all settled in to make Sampa their home.
I've taken to walking the city down the famous Paulista Avenue (a bit like Oxford street in London) and Brooklin (the new financial district where I'm staying).

The Estaiada Bridge over the Pinheiros river (the bridge occupies place of pride among the new marginal pinheiros financial district)

One question that pops up when one thinks of SP or Rio is safety. Once here I've realised that the whole safety question is relative. As a matter of fact so far in the areas that I've roamed, I felt more safe than even in London or Munich or even Vienna given the large number of people around even in night. I hear Rio is worse. Also downtown Sao Paulo is pretty dangerous if alone at night. But which city these days even in EU is safe when alone at night ? But I like that element of risk. Anyways Sampa is nowhere in the league of Nairobi or Dar es Salaam or Joburg. So I'm ok with the risk. I will definitely do things here that I never did in Nairobi or Joburg. There is seldom a threat to life which is omnipresent in these cities.

Will I be back ? Not to Sao Paulo per se - but I should come back for the Pantanal and then Amazon.

The Epic of Mara

Masai Mara. The mottled plains of South-western Kenya watered by Mara and Talek rivers. Abode to the Maasai warriors. The savannahs that many believe is the cradle of mankind – making him climb down as primates from trees due to the conversion of the rainforest into grasslands. Driving the homo sapiens to walk on two limbs, develop tools to escape from ground predators and finally start agriculture.

The legend of modern Mara is it's eminence as the 8th wonder of the world. Home to multitude of animals, birds and trees. Home to the wildebeest migration across the greater mara conservancy and the Serengetti plains of Tanzania. I had never been to the Kenyan side of this vast wilderness and was very much looking forward to the same.
As the flight touched down at Nairobi we met up with co-wildlife photographers Paul McDougall from UK and Dicky & Poonam from India. After the usual round of tuskers and bush stories we were on our way to the plains across the rift valley. I was a little skeptical if Sandy is going to live through the stark nylon tented camp-in-the middle of -lion territory without running water or electricity. As it turned out, it all went like a dream !
On the way, I was wondering – What makes Mara so legendary? Who is the hero of Mara's drama? Is it large super prides of lions like the Serena pride or the Marsh pride? Is it the famous cheetah families like the Honey’s boys or the Three brothers? Is it the unfortunately fast disappearing Rhinos? Is it the stealthy Leopards with their Impala kills up the trees? Or is it the herds of Elephants sashaying across the savannahs without a care in the world ? Over the next 8 days, I’d get my answer. And the answer would humble me.
Over a million wildebeest, and half a million zebra and antelope migrate from the Masai Mara all the way to the Serengeti ecosystem. It is a perilous trek with crocodiles lurking at river crossings, predators such as lions, cheetahs and leopards a constant threat – and yet it takes place every year, year after year.

One should go across the plains into Tanzania to search for the origin of the legendary migration. In the plains of Ndutu in greater Serengetti ecosystem, come February, over 500,000 pregnant mothers give birth to their next generation. Half of them would be eaten up by predators or otherwise dead in months. Those that survives join their mothers, fathers, Zebra uncles/aunts and begin their quest for food across the Mara.
By May/June the plans of Mara gets watered by the long rains, providing enough grass for the oncoming visitors. They reach the plains by July and August completing one half of the cycle. By October/November, the herd is ready to go back the same route into the Serengetti for the next calving season and welcoming a new generation to join in this massive cycle of birth, death and regeneration.
Journey and life inherently becomes one for over a million. They fight, drink, play, run, nurse, have sex – all during the course of this epic journey of life.

Their path is littered with hurdles that lesser willed souls will surrender abjectly to. For starters there are the cheetahs that hunt the baby wildebeests mercilessly. There are lion prides that hunt babies, mothers and fathers alike – and in 100s. Vultures feed on the carcasses and pray for their death.

The migration reaches its crescendo as the herds cross rivers like Mara, Talek, Grumeti in their 1000s. Mothers lead the way across the rivers full of ferocious crocodiles that hunt down the weak, the young and the contemplative. Witnessing these crossings are nothing short of spiritual - the rush of adrenaline, the struggle of life, the timelessness of the event - all makes the viewer reach a transcendental stage.

Many of these wildebeests get eaten up – by the rapids of Mara or the crocodiles. Many get trampled upon by their own, in a mad frenzy that needs to be seen to be believed. Zoomed out, a wide angle gives you a determined herd, purposeful in it’s journey of life. Zoomed in, the tele portrays a different story. Eyes full of fear, babies frightened, mothers tense. One final kiss and nuzzle on one side of the river before the drama begins. It ends on the other side – with many actors not making it across. It is a most painful sight to see the bleating calfs and mothers separated from one another. Standing aloft on stone ledges beside the river, watching their loved ones brutally killed by crocs or drowning into the endless Mara.

In their death they finally become one with nature’s cycle once again. Providing food for the scavengers – vultures and monitor lizards, crocs and hyenas. And soon they are forgotten by the Mara plains. Till the next season.

They are, for me, the true heroes of the Mara. The ones that define the lifelines of these endless plains….

When I die do not throw the meat and bones away
But pile them up; And let them tell
By their smell
What life was worth
On this earth
What love was worth
In the end – Kamala Das

License to Africa

I marked a decade of African experiences last week - in the most obviously unnatural way. By getting a syringe inserted into my hands as part of the Yellow fever vaccination. (Once taken, validity lasts for a decade !) So much has changed in my life across the two yellow fever shots that I became a bit philosophical as the Malayalee nurse gave me my vaccine in a government clinic in Dubai. I could smell the grasslands, taste the Ugali, drink Kilimanjaro 300 ml bottle beer and hear the ever present Hakuna matatas in that one moment. Things only a dedicated Afrophile can acknowledge. (Maybe East Africophile, if there is any such adjective ever!). I just had license shot to go and reclaim the memories.

As the old African saying in those parts go - Go back to the water holes ; you will get more than water, you will meet old friends and fading memories.

I had just returned from trekking the rift valley Mountain ranges in Ethiopia (without malarial shots I must proudly/foolishly say) and looking forward to the savannas of Kenya. The relationship of the two is as interesting and mythical as everything in Africa - to it's folklore, to it's men of death and after life, to the baobabs and to blood diamonds, and the gods. Without one the other is non existent. Without the Ethiopian high ranges blocking the rain carrying clouds to allow for watering of the grasslands of Kenya and Tanzania, they would have been more or less like the Namib desert.

Anyways, after this philosophizing, I realised that with the amount I paid for the vaccine in Dubai for the two of us, we could have gotten vaccines for our whole lives in India ! (Which is maybe another 4-5 times by the by ;)

One starts the countdown to Africa once you have had your first malarial shot which happens around a week to 10 days before the trip. I'm waiting for the shot day - to start my count down. To the promised land. To the water holes - in search of fading memories and a treasure trove of new ones to hold fast unto the next journey.